Short(long) Story

Well this is my first entry. Decided to make a blog out of boredom so we will see how long this thing lasts. Here's a little of whats been going on for me lately.I have been in Texas for the last two months, constantly going to the doctor and now finally getting surgery on my left shoulder and possibly my left wrist. Don't wanna get both right away cause it'll be hectic + extra time out of the water, which i cant handle. This September Me and my good friend Ben saw a big south swell on the horizon heading right for all of southern California, so we cruised from Santa Barbara to LA. we checked probably a hundred spots at least. When we got to be just north of Malibu i saw a beachie with what looked like a little overhead lefts going for 50 yards and looked ripable but we kept driving because we wanted to check Malibu.So we get to Malibu and actually tried to park because it was connecting perfectly all the way through to almost the pier. after doing 3 circles on the pch we gave up and went back to the beachie. Found a spot with ease and went down the beach to scope it out. Turns out what i though was a little overhead was almost double overhead and probably the heaviest sand bottom waves Ive seen in CA, glassy as can be and pumping top to bottom barrels. Epic to say the least. So we rush back and change and i grabbed my 6'3" Ben grabbed his board and we were out there. It honestly felt like big Ehukai cause it was so heavy. I get my first three waves, all were stand up tubes and i didn't make one. I see a set coming so i do a mad dash to the spot, this was the biggest wave i had seen since i got out there so i dig and get up and pull in off the bat stood there for a second or two, came out, but the wave was about to close out so i did a flyaway and according to Ben went about 15ft in the air, ditched my board and just dove like i have a million times before. BUT, this time my hands were to my side and as soon as i hit the surface of the water, it ripped my shoulder back and i knew something was wrong immediately. came up and couldn't move my left arm and there was a step between my shoulder and the top of my arm. the rest of the set was coming so i tried to swim out but got pounded by two size able waves. shit hurt. then managed to get on my board and one handed paddle out the back. So i sit up on my board and start trying to figure out what the fuck happened. start punching my shoulder. nothing happens. start trying to move it around with my right hand and again. nothing happens. So i decided to pull my arm out and i guess that did the trick. it popped in and i could move it but along with movement came some ridiculous amounts of pain. tried to find Ben in the water but the current was so strong he was more than 100yards away from me. and UNBELIEVABLY there was maybe 10 guys out (remember I'm talking about LA here) and it was majorly spread out so trying to wave to Ben was pointless. Along with big Souths come big lulls usually so during a lull i paddled in with both arms while holding my breath cause it hurt so bad. after that i talked to the lifeguard and he advised i go to the emergency room cause of possible nerve damage. That wasn't an option for me since i had no health insurance at the time. somehow Ben came in like 10 minutes after all this and the wind almost immediately came onshore. so we left and went to one of Ben's friends houses in Venice. Proceeded to self medicate a little bit because i couldn't get it checked out. Put ice on it and called it a day. Got to sit on the beach and watch Ben surf a secret right in malibu somewhere. All i know is we checked the spot from Alek Baldwins house. Then we went home. from then until late November i dislocated my shoulder 6 times. All surfing. not going into detail on those. Basically i stopped surfing after NOV. 20th. came to Texas Just before Christmas. My parents moved here from NJ in 2005. Now I'm getting surgery on my left shoulder this coming Tuesday. wish me luck. more to come on the specs of my injury.